So, I am starting a blog, we will see how this works out and how long it lasts. haha. This may be fun to keep a "journal" on events I feel necessary to share and for those who care. :)
Well lets start with this weekend...went surfing yesterday with my boyfriend Philip in Pacifica/Linda Mar. I just started about a month and half ago. I am getting better every time but it is very difficult. My arms are becoming stronger and I am facing the water with more confidence. According to Phil this is the hardest sport to learn. I agree. I have yet to stand up, but I have caught waves, riding flat on my stomach and "squatting". I have fun even though I am not very good because it is all about being in the water and enjoying the beach. To the right is a picture of my favorite beach, Montara. It is super secluded and a lot less crowded then the other beaches we surf. Unfortunately the conditions of the waves aren't as consistent as other beaches. Montara tends to be very choppy and inconsistent. The waves in this picture were about 10-12 feet. The picture obviously doesn't do it justice. I'll post more pics from surfing as I get better. For now I'll just entertain you with the idea of me paddling around on a surfboard like a drowning duck. Haha....
I will leave you with an assignment I did for my sociology/intro to social research class (don't ask) about surfing....
Surfing makes me feel good. I consider myself very cautious and in turn I create things in my mind about the strength of the ocean, sharks and other risk factors. Right before I get in the ocean I need to prepare myself into the right mindset that makes me focus on surfing and nothing else. When I feel ready I walk to the edge of the water, let some waves crash into my legs and hold the board above the water up to my side. Once there are no waves crashing for a few seconds I run in as fast as I can and I smack the board onto the water and throw myself on top of it. Right away I have to paddle as hard as I can to get over the roaring waves. Once I pass the first sandbar it starts to settle down. Now it’s time to wait for the right wave to come. As I lay there I feel an attachment to the ocean from the bumps and spills. I let my body go with it naturally so I don’t fight it. I watch a few waves pass me by, none of them seem worth it so I dive into them and let the water flow between me and by board. I wait a little bit longer, the perfect wave comes and I paddle with all my might and kick my feet with rage, I catch it, I’m flying on top of the water and it’s the most amazing thing in the world. Coming home after a day of paradise always eases my mind into a state of utter happiness. This is what makes me feel good.
